as mentioned earlier, Precision Casting requires the reel-seat portion of the rod to be raised up near the angler’s face, and then tilted so the tip can be aimed at the target. To initiate the cast, the rod should be raised to vertical, or sometimes slightly beyond, and then brought forward sharply, to be stopped when the tip is once again pointing at the target.
Casting in calm conditions requires very little (if any) stroke compensation. However, strong winds and currents make it necessary to adjust the cast in order to accurately deliver a lure or bait to its mark. Like geometry, Precision Casting now becomes a game of angles. For example, if a fish is holding on a point, or you wish to bait a specific piling, consider the direction of the wind, and how the current will affect your presentation. Attempt to position yourself so the wind is at your back. However, if you cannot get a downwind shot and are faced with a crosswind, determine how far upwind and at what angle you’ll need to cast the lure or bait to let the breeze accurately deliver your cast to the target.
Speed is essential in overpowering the wind, hence sharp and rapid casts. In addition, after the cast, immediately sink the line by lowering the rod tip to the water; this prevents the wind from catching the line and pulling the lure or bait away from the intended spot, or rapidly sweeping it through the zone.
Use the current to your advantage, and let it help take the lure or bait to the mark. I rely on current often, especially for drifting live baits underneath overhanging brush and docks. Again, compensate for the current, and then determine where the bait needs to go initially, prior to the cast. After the pitch, I’ll stick nearly half my rod underwater to sink the line deep enough to avoid snagging any overhanging branches.